Thursday marked the end of my first semester classes…finally! I have one last final in the beginning of July, but until then I’m freeeeeeeeeee! Paloma and I commemorated this achievement by treating ourselves to Tatú. Those delicious empanadas never get old. That night I had a real night out on the town with my API loves, renting a bombbb party bus (basically a boat on wheels with super tacky flashing lights…so epic.), raging around the Obelisco and up and down Avenida 9 de Julio for an hour or so, then ended up at Asia de Cuba, a boliche in Puerto Madero right on the river. (You can see the Puente de la Mujer from the patio!) We danced ‘til the sun came up…muy buena onda toda la noche. (The best part of the night quite possibly could have been me falling asleep on the colectivo home…at 7AM…waking up AT my stop! Qué suerte, ¿no?)
Odio las despedidas. They began on Friday and only got harder as the day went on. (The resaca that I had from the night before didn’t help matters either!) We met for the ISA despedida at Deli-Wok, a tenedor libre including chorizo, sushi, a complete parrilla, and over ten different tortas. I wound up stuffing my face with chorizo (making mini-choripan!) that I didn’t even make it to the postre table…typical. After a few chau’s, hasta luego’s, and nos vemos re pronto’s, I found myself roaming Cabildo, making my way home for a much needed resaca siesta. A few Melona bars and a three-hour siesta later, I had rallied and Paloma and I were off to Fuerzabruta.
If you ever get the chance to see Fuerzabruta, DO IT. Re imprecionante. Fuerzabruta is an Argentine theatrical company, similar Cirque Du Soleil, aesthetically innovated through flying acrobats, flashing lights, and experimental props. A serious mind orgasm. You can really see Argentina’s Carnaval influence in the choreography and execution of the show. The aerial (a 6-foot high moving treadmill and 20-foot flying curtain), aquatic (two clear-bottom, mobile, tilting pools suspended from the ceiling), and acrobatic (the thirteen cast members fly, run, and dive down into the audience to bring guests up on top of the flying curtain) components of the show make it the most unique show I have ever seen. At some points the pool dipped low enough for the audience to touch it, at others they were rained on and pelted with foam blocks and shredded cardboard. This is the touring Carnaval. We unfortunately weren’t able to be in the campo (where the real party is!), but we still were moved by the dynamic energy of Fuerzabruta. Here’s a video I caught of the end of the show, just to get a little idea of the incredible insanity that we were part of:
After the show we headed to Sugar to obsess over the unbelievable spectacle that was Fuerzabruta. We ran into Fer and some of his friends, who we lucky to give their despedidas to Paloma before she left. Our last night ever obviously ended with choripan…what better way to conclude our last night in BA together, right?
My heart was as gloomy as the cielo on Saturday: dreary grey overcast, bitter cold, and departing friends. I woke up with a pit in my stomach, knowing the tristeza that was to come. Naturally as soon as I woke up I went straight to the United Airlines website to see if the cenizas would work in my favor and close down Ezeiza as they had done on Friday. Unfortunately, I did not have such luck. Paloma and I met at Tatú for one final almuerzo of the empanadas that we love so much. We then made our way to Plaza Belgrano, for some of her last-minute maté purchases…crucial. Before we knew it, it was time to meet at UB to say our last despedidas to many of our ISA friends. I held myself together pretty well until I went to comfort Paula and Erika, whose teary eyes got my waterworks going as I anticipated the dreaded despedida. Paloma and I had to get out of there before the bus pulled away, and as we walked down Zabala away from UB we lost it. We walked back to her apartment, arm in arm, tearfully reminiscing the awesome times we have had together these past five months and realizing how much we were going to miss each other. Arriving at the corner of Libertador and Sucre, I came close to throwing myself in front of one of the speeding cars. We sat on her stoop, holding each other, sobbing, not wanting to leave. Definitely one of the hardest despedidas of my life.
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| In La Paloma, Uruguay...get it?! HA HA |
I, however, was not the only one shedding lágrimas this weekend. Yesterday River Plate played Belgrano, a fútbol team from Córdoba. Soccer game in Argentina are always full of energy, but this game was no ordinary one. River needed to win this game by two points in order to keep their standing in the A league. Mechi warned me about the anticipated ferocity of this game, and how exactly fanáticos de River would respond if they lost. I even received an email from the US Embassy, warning me that “given the stakes, this soccer game will be an emotionally charged event for a large number of fervent River fans. Depending on the outcome, the situation could get out of hand and hooligans may confront police and/or destroy property.” Woah. I live two kilometers from the River cancha, and I could still hear the shouting and cheers all the way in my apartment. I decided it would be best to get as far away from Nuñéz as possible, so Paula, Erika, and I met up at a choripan place in Recoleta to watch the game. River scored in the very beginning, but they got a little too confident and their execution went downhill from there. For the most of the game they just needed one more point to stay in the A league, and with all of the close shots on goal I thought that they would be okay. But then, in the second half, one of the defensemen messed up their plays, letting the ball sneak into the goal. The game was now tied, requiring River to score two points in the remaining twenty minutes of the game. Lágrimas streamed down the faces of all the River fans, as they knew they were soon to face cruel, history-making defeat.
Their despondency was apparent, and quite frankly prevented them from playing their best. The game ended at 17hs, tied 1-1. Fans were throwing boards onto the field, hitting both Belgrano and River players. The police had to create a human barrier around all of the players and escort them back into their pits. People were climbing down onto the field from the stands, hoping to storm the players. Police used high-powered hoses to attempt to stop the riots in the stadium. But the locura didn’t end there. As part of Argentine fútbol game regulations, the irate River fans had to wait inside the stadium until all opposing fans had left and were a solid 15 blocks or so away from the cancha…for obvious reasons. Fans were rioting in the streets for hours after the game, and many still remained inside the stadium, fearing the violence outside. Angry fans were throwing metal bars and stones, setting off bombs, and carelessly driving their cars through masses of people, leaving 25 injured. Police responded to these rioters with teargas, helicopters, and high-powered hoses, but it still took hours to end the brawl. They needed to clear over 50,000 fans from the stadium’s perimeter, which is not an easy task if you know Argentine fútbol aficionados. This is the first time in River’s 110 years as a club that they are being relegated to the B league. Uproar was definitely anticipated, however definitely not to this extent.
I have quite a bit of time until my last final, so Erika and I have decided to explore a new barrio each day. Today is El Centro, where we will get a little taste of iconic Buenos Aires.
Chau,
audgentina.
