Showing posts with label uruguay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label uruguay. Show all posts

October 12, 2011

comemos chivito, tomamos fernet

Monday was a national feriado (celebrating el Día de la Raza, or Columbus Day), so Lidi and I made our way across the Río de la Plata to Montevideo.  It was a great weekend, even though things didn’t exactly start out smooth.

Because it was a long weekend and we like to leave things until the last minute, Buquebus was booked solid, so we had to resort to Seacat.  We didn’t think this would be a problem…until we boarded the ferry.

Thursday was incredibly windy and rainy, making it difficult to even get to the ferry terminal to begin with.  We finally made it there in one piece, checked our bags, went through immigration, and began making our way to the ferry.  We could not believe our eyes when we saw the ferry tiny boat.  The storm dominated the little Seacat.  Within the first five minutes after pulling away from the puerto, the boat began swaying from side to side, resulting in passengers, muy mareados.  One woman was passed out on the ground of the boat.  People were screaming and getting sick, all the while water was pouring in from the sides of the boat.  I saw my life flash before my eyes.  Luckily, it was an express boat, so we only had to deal with this locura for an hour.

Our bus from Colonia to Montevideo was just as eventful.  There was one loud borracho, who seemed as though he must be pregaming for a football game by the amount of cold ones he was tossing back.  We later found out that he had snuck past customs and was carrying drugs with him, so he was booted off the bus.  (C’mon dude, you need to be more stealth.)  While aduana was dealing with him, the woman in front of Lidi and I asked Lidi if she would put her luggage (aka a plastic garbage bag) under Lidi’s seat.  We thought it was a rather weird request, but Lidi told her to just put it under her own seat.  Two minutes later, aduana came back on the bus to ask this woman to open her plastic bag.  Sorpresa: she was smuggling drugs.  Good thing Lidi didn’t take the bag, otherwise we’d probably still be in Montevideo.  Ayyy.  We got to the hostel in Pocitos around 12am, rallied, and went to Tres Perros per the hostel’s recommendation.  One weird Uruguayan “custom” we observed: men oddly dominate the bars.  Some would say this would be a good thing, but it was just weird.  We would go as far to say there was a 1:4 girl to guy ratio.  Definitely not something we see every day in BA.

Friday we woke up to torrential downpours.  Not the weather for sightseeing, so unfortunately we spent the majority of the day at el shopping, changing money, grocery shopping, and basically seeking refuge from la lluvia.  We found a small Mexican joint for lunch, and by the time we were finished the rain had cleared up.  After dropping everything off at the hostel, we decided to walk down to the beach.  It was incredibly chilly and windy (a HUGE temperature change from last weekend in Córdoba!), but still beautiful.  We finished at a bar called Che, getting an early start on the evening.  On our way back to the hostel, we stopped at a chivitería for some comida típica.  So good.  Chivito is a lot like lomo, but better and más completo.  We went back to the hostel, fell into a deep food coma, and woke up and rallied to go to Asia de Cuba.  (Not very uruguayo…pero bueno.  They had 2x1 promociones de cerveza, so we weren’t going to complain!)  It was a lot of fun; great music, but we were missing our energía porteña.

Saturday was not very rainy, so we decided to explore Ciudad Vieja.  Just as we got of the colectivo we passed a California Burrito Co. (conveniently just as our resacas began to kick in…), so we just HAD to stop for lunch.  Claramente, we love Mexican food, especially in Uruguay.  We went to the Mercado del Puerto, where we went to Roldós and tried their infamous sparkling wine.  It was interesting, to say the least, and something that we had to do in Uruguay.  We then made our way to an artisan market in El Centro, while wandering through some barrios near the puerto.  It was the bicentenario in Uruguay, so there were lots of celebrations, performances, and desfiles in the street.  Pretty neat.

After our much needed siestas, we woke up to some talk downstairs of a possible asado that evening.  Instinctively, we sprinted to the market to pick up some bife y chori, and joined the rest of the porteños in the hostel for an asado.  We wound up going back to Asia de Cuba again that night, not as great as the night before but we still raged.

Sunday was another dreary, rainy day in Montevideo, so we slept in and laid low with the fellow porteños in the hostel.  I whipped up my genius salad creation for Lidi, which made everyone else laugh.  (¡La yanqui está haciendo algo para la latina!)  After a lot of laying around, Lidi and I went to the beach for a bit, to el shopping, then back to the hostel for another asado.  I really can’t get enough chori.  We decided to go to El Living for drinks with some of the other porteños from the hostel, where Lidi and I sipped on some delicious sangria.  There was this creepy old man in the hostel, an old surfer dude in his 50’s from Punta del Este, who has clearly smoked and drank too much for his own good.  On several occasions this weekend we caught him pulling a Peeping Tom into our private room.  He managed to follow us to El Living, where the bar owner literally threw him out (after seeing his insane level of creepiness).  When he was within twenty feet of us it was funny…any closer, and not so much.

On Monday we went to a delicious pizzería for lunch, then spent the majority of the afternoon walking around like uruguayas.  (Maté y termo en mano.)  We wound up in a pretty shady plaza, per the recommendation of the jovencito in the hostel, so we quickly bounced and wandered our way back to Pocitos.  Once we were back at the hostel, we quickly got our things together and before we knew it we were on our way back to BA.  Luckily, on Buquebus this time.

For the past three weeks I have been traveling nonstop, so I am excited to actually be in BA for a bit.  I’m in the process of scheduling a two-week trip to Patagonia, but details are all still up in the air.  In other news, I turn 22 in six days, and could not be dreading it more!

Chau,
audgentina.

June 6, 2011

argentina: mi amor, mi alma, mi vida

My life in the past four months, en fotos, videos y música.



Canción: "Ojalá Que Este Verano No Nos Maten!" by La Ola Que Quería Ser Chau

March 19, 2011

shakira, carnaval y san patricio

SHAKIRA. Oh. My. God. Thinking of that night still brings me chills. It is definitely safe to say that my life has changed for the better. I was never a huge fan, but thought it would be fun to see her live in Buenos Aires. I arrived at the festival with a few friends around four in the afternoon. Thanks to Cassie’s inconspicuous maneuvers, we were able to sneak in a whole picnic of fruit, sandwiches, a liter of Coke and a bottle of Fernet—an Argentine spirit that at first taste resembles battery acid but it really does grow on you. We set up camp and enjoyed the sunshine while some of the smaller acts played. Ziggy came on before Shakira, and as the daughter of an exceptionally devoted Bob Marley fan (what would be the male version of a groupie?), it was pretty awesome to see him play. You can totally hear his father’s influence in his voice, and he even played a few Bob songs towards the end. Throughout his performance, more and more people started to shuffle in, but it wasn’t until the end of the festival when I realized exactly HOW many people were there. Shakira really is a GOD in Latin America. Although she is actually Colombian, she really does consider this entire region to be her home turf. The first thing she said upon arriving on stage was “no hay lugar como estar en casa” (there is no place like being home). The crowd went NUTS over every song she played (especially “Loca” and “Loba”…two of my personal favorites). She even played a 90s throwback: “Underneath Your Clothes.” English-speakers were the evident minority, but we rightfully went nuts when she sang this song.

The festival ended around midnight, and it was then that I realized that there were tens of thousands of people at this concert. (Final headcount: 45,000. Thanks Cass!) Por eso, finding a cab was near impossible. We had anticipated this, so instead of hopelessly trying to hail a
cab right away, we stopped at one of the many pancho stands along the boardwalk in Puerto Madero for some late-night nomz. You know I can’t get myself away from those panchos. It took us a solid hour to find a cab that wouldn’t charge us $100 AR to take us back to Belgrano, but our tummies were happy, and that’s all that mattered (even though we didn’t get home until close to 3AM).

URUGUAY. If someone had told me a few years ago that my junior year spring break would be spent in Uruguay, I would have laughed in their face. Until I decided to study abroad in Argentina, I knew NOTHING about Uruguay and never would have imagined that there were such serene beaches in that country. Amanda, Abbie, Paloma and I set off on our journey late on Sunday night. Our transportation to La Paloma consisted of a ferry from BA to Colonia, then a bus from Colonia to La Paloma. I was imagining the Buquebus (the ferry) to be a dinky little ferry like the ones that go from the Cape to Nantucket. Wrong. This ferry had a delicious food kiosco, fully stocked duty free store, bar on deck and a glass elevator. This Buquebus almost resembled the Titanic.

We arrived in Uruguay towards the tail end of Carnaval, and let me just say GOOD LORD. I always thought that Carnaval was all street parties, costumes, and good times. No one told me that you literally need weapons of defense in order to survive Carnaval in one piece. I wish I were kidding. We began our aventuras uruguashas (note the accent!) in La Paloma, a small beach town in Eastern Uruguay. The population of La Paloma is less than 4,000, which had led me to believe that the locura of Carnaval wouldn’t be as intense here. Yeah, well FALSE. Regardless of the time of day, it was actually impossible to walk the streets—be it the main street through downtown La Paloma or one of the small side streets—without getting foamed, hit by a water balloon, or some other weapon of minimal destruction. It was funny at first, but after that first time I was ready to take out the suckers with a full-blasted water gun.

Other than the Carnaval mayhem, La Paloma was incredible! (Said mayhem actually made my time in La Paloma more interesting! Quite the experience…) I absolutely LOVED the hostel we stayed at and would return there in a heartbeat. They had the most delicious dulce de leche (locally made, I believe) and the staff recommended the greatest local asado restaurant. Hands down best choripan I have had yet.

After three days in La Paloma we headed west to Punta del Este. But of course it wouldn’t be a South American backpacking adventure without a smoking bus breaking down in the middle of nowhere! (Soaking up the Uruguayan atardecer definitely made up for this minor transportation mishap.) I was pleasantly surprised by the efficient communication between the bus drivers. They only had us waiting (albeit on the side of the ruta…) for a half-hour before the new bus came and got us. They told us on the bus that those of us going to Punta del Este (having to transfer buses in San Carlos) would not be able to be dropped off IN San Carlos, rather on the side of the ruta. GREAAAT—I thought—ANOTHER HOUR ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. Wrong. Right when we pulled up to the side-ruta drop-off location, our bus taking us to Punta del Este pulled up and we got on our way. It seemed a little too easy, because how could South American transportation POSSIBLY be so (relatively) efficient?

After meeting up with Allegra, Sheehan and Paula our first day in Punta del Este, we decided to make some sangria and rent a boat for the afternoon. This ended up being such an amazing day. We first went to Isla de Lobos, the habitat of SO many sea lions. Seeing this was incredible, but then our boat driver told us that we could get out and swim with them! They came so close to us; it was unreal.

We then went to Isla de Gorriti, which is an island off the coast of Punta del Este where people will take their boats and jet skis to relax on the uninhabited island (only infrastructure on the island: a beach bar). When we arrived on the island—around 4:30PM—everyone, including us, was in verrrrry good spirits. We made many friends there, including some Argentines who let us take out their jet skis!

The rest of our week in Punta consisted of lots of beach time (checking out Los Dedos!) and taking advantage of the bustling nightlife, re parecido to the nightlife in BA (but obviously on a much smaller scale). We managed to find a very cheap seafood restaurant (with paella AND sushi…WIN.), which was convenient when the week came to an end and our funds did as well.



CLASE. I’m sorry, but I don’t understand. It actually feels like a lifetime ago that I was doing homework, studying for exams, and taking notes in class. I’m taking four classes: Historia de movimientos políticos y sociales (with ARGENTINES! Eek!), Historia económica en Latinoamérica, Sistemas políticos: los populismos en Latinoamérica, and Taller de escritura. Some classes are easier to understand than others, it really depends on el profe. None of my books are in yet (and won’t be in until Wednesday), so I conveniently haven’t had to do any homework yet. I’m hoping this study abroad experience will be more abroad and less study…but we will see how these classes go. OH…and I don’t have Friday classes. Helloooooooooo three-day weekends. This is really how life should be.

Over 10,000 kilometers from Ireland and you can still find wild St. Patty’s Day celebrations. I know I did, and was not expecting to at ALL! Obviously a ploy to gather all the Americans in the Buenos Aires area, get them drinking a little, and let the rest of the night unfold as it inevitably would. I’m not complaining—I had a GREAT time (peep me with a midget dressed up as a not-so PC Spanish leprechaun).


I then spent the entirety of the day following St. Patty’s in the Migraciones office, waiting to get my permanent visa. The incompetence of the empleados and inefficiency of the process astounded me, but I was too “weak” to notice all that much. But I am officially a resident of Argentina…hooray!

Amanda, Paloma and I went to the Recoleta market today, where I bought a pair of re cómodas leather sandals for $50 AR. We spent the day browsing the market, relaxing in the park, and walking through El Cementerio de la Recoleta, where iconic Argentines are buried (such as Evita Perón). We made a b-line straight to Evita, and hogged her grave for a little bit. Oops. Tomorrow is Cassie’s birthday, so tonight we’re going out to celebrate at a club called Rumi. Should be fun!

What’s on the horizon:
-El Día del Campo: Mañana. Not really sure what this día will consist of, but I’m guessing gauchos, maté, asado, and empanadas. An unbeatable combination.
-Córdoba: next weekend. Next Thursday and Friday are feriados nacionales, so on Wednesday night we leave for our long weekend at an estancia in Córdoba. Hiking, horseback riding, asado, maté and a fresh, outdoorsy weekend away from the not-so buenos aires of Buenos Aires. My lungs will be ever so grateful.
-Santiago, Chile: April 1-4. LOLLAPALOOZA…need I say more?!

Chau,
audgentina.